1. The Headlamp Assembly: It appears very dull ey? Yes, I was going to remove it and replace the frontal glass.

2. The Tool: All the bolts that attach the assembly to the chassis are 10mm and you would need a bit rod for disassembling the headlamp unit.

3. Remove Bolts: Use the 10mm bit rod to remove the bolts.  Remove the first bolt visible from the top.

4. Remove the other 3 bolts visible from the front side.

5. Remove the hidden bolt.  Now that you have removed the front side 3 bolts, you will be able to pull that plastic to expose the hidden lamp assembly bolt fastened to the chassis.

6. Shake and pull the the headlamp assembly.  Remember to remove three wiring harnesses connected to the headlamp assembly; a) The Bulb supply b) Motor, Parking lamp, Main Bulb supply c)  Indicator supply.

That’s it.  It takes just 5 minutes and 1 tool to remove the head lamp assembly from Getz Prime.

Procedure for setting up proxim driver is given here:-
http://questier.com/howto.html#Proxim

If you want to try an alternate device, use this list linux compatible devices:-
http://www.cyberciti.biz/tips/linux-usb-wireless-compatibility-adapter-list.html

How to on Wireless networking:-
http://www.linuxhomenetworking.com/wiki/index.php/Quick_HOWTO_:_Ch13_:_Linux_Wireless_Networking

If there is a windows driver, you can use “ndiswrapper” to setup a Linux module atop the windows driver sys and inf files. Try this as well.

Step 1: Open the Bonnet of the Car

Step 2: Identify the Parking Lamp + Head Lamp Positioning Motor Power Line

Step 3: Remove the Parking Lamp, Lamp Positioning Motor Power Connector

Step 4: Remove the Connector Shield to find the Power lines

Step 5: Find and Tap the Parking Lamp Line.

Step 6: Put the connector shield back on the connector
Step 7: Put the connector back on the Lamp assembly
Step 8: Turn on Parking Lamp; Hurray LED Strip is AWESOME.

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Powered by ScribeFire.

இப்படி கூட சோளத்தை சாப்பிடலாமோ…

சொல்லிக்கொடுத்தவர் இதோ..

There can be several problems with the weathering course laid on top in the terrace. I am facing a very peculiar problem with it. In my apartment, we are seeing water dripping out the roof via the parapet-roof joints several days after rain. Water oozes out via a crack that has formed at the joint of the parapet wall and the roof RCC. Also, the dripping is happening near the roof drain vents, which happens to the lowest area of the roof-top.

Generally while constructing roof and weathering course, masons leave an inclination of level towards a corner of the roof for the rain water to drain comfortably. In our case, we are seeing water draining through a crack between the parapet wall and the roof in the vicinity of the drain vent. Since it is near the drain vent, we were suspecting the thickness of the weathering course. As there is a forced inclination in the weathering course layer, the thickness of the course near the vent should be lesser than the other areas of the roof.

When we consulted with a civil engineer, he was giving a completely different explanation for the problem. He was suspecting the iron-oxide coated shells layered on top the weathering course. He was saying rain water might have gotten into the core of the weathering course through the gaps between the iron-oxide shells. The water thus gotten inside keeps the weathering course in soaked condition for a long time. Here the core of the weathering course behaves like a sponge to absorb all the water that seeps inside. Later, the water thus absorbed percolate to the lowest side of the roof slowly, which may take weeks time (like our case). Once the amount of water reach a significant quantity at the lowest side, it tries to escape somehow. In our case, the escape vent is a crack that had formed between the roof RCC and parapet wall construction.

So what is the solution to this problem? Should we take out the weathering course completely and redo from scratch? Should we be finding the source of the problem, the places were rain water seeps inside the core of the weathering course? Should we increase the thickness of the lowest side of the roof ? All these cannot be permanent solutions or they may not be easily doable. The
solution that I have is the following. Since the water collected is trying to escape, let’s give it an easy way to escape. Finally, we don’t want the core to be soaked. So we should be placing vent pipes just above the RCC roof level and be placed amidst the core of the weathering course at the lowest side of the roof. We know that water from all the areas are reaching here percolating for weeks. If there is an easy vent out like the vent pipe, the accumulated water can escape easily instead of dripping out of a crack. If we can find potential spots in the roof for more vent holes, we may very well preserve the consistency of the core of the weathering course for a long time. But that’s going to be pretty tricky!!

இன்று, உதவுவதற்கு எவருமில்லை; காற்று கூட அமைதியாகவே இருந்தது. பல முயற்சி செய்தும் ஒரு பலனும் இல்லை. எனக்கே காமெடியாக இருந்தது. கவரை போடுவதும், அது விலகி கிழே விழுவதுமாக இருந்தது. யாரவது பார்த்திருந்தால் என்னை ஒரு கிறுக்கன் என்றே நினைத்திருப்பார்கள்.

நான் செய்த தவறு கடைசியாகத்தான் எனக்கு புரிந்தது. நான் கவரை காரின் முன் பக்கத்திலிருந்து போட முயற்சித்தேன். முன் பக்கம் தாழ்வாக இருப்பதால் கவரானது வழுக்கி விலகியது. சரி, ஒரு முறை பின்பக்கத்திலிருந்து முயற்சிப்போம் என்று போட்டு பார்க்க; அட இவ்வளவு எளிதாக கச்சிதமாக பொருந்துமா என்று ஆச்சரியப்பட்டேன்.

இக்கதையிலிருந்து கற்றுக்கொள்ளவேண்டியது காருக்கு கவர் போடும் போது பின் பக்கத்திலிருந்து தொடாங்க வேண்டும். முன் பக்கத்திலிருந்து தொடங்க வேண்டுமானால் யாராவது துணைக்கு வேண்டும்.