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How to Remove The headlamp – Getz Prime

September 24th, 2011 No comments

Removing the headlamp from Getz Prime is pretty trivial and requires just only one tool and probably 5 minutes of time.  Let’s see how to go about that.

1. The Headlamp Assembly: It appears very dull ey? Yes, I was going to remove it and replace the frontal glass.

2. The Tool: All the bolts that attach the assembly to the chassis are 10mm and you would need a bit rod for disassembling the headlamp unit.

3. Remove Bolts: Use the 10mm bit rod to remove the bolts.  Remove the first bolt visible from the top.

4. Remove the other 3 bolts visible from the front side.

5. Remove the hidden bolt.  Now that you have removed the front side 3 bolts, you will be able to pull that plastic to expose the hidden lamp assembly bolt fastened to the chassis.

6. Shake and pull the the headlamp assembly.  Remember to remove three wiring harnesses connected to the headlamp assembly; a) The Bulb supply b) Motor, Parking lamp, Main Bulb supply c)  Indicator supply.

That’s it.  It takes just 5 minutes and 1 tool to remove the head lamp assembly from Getz Prime.

Oil Cooler Assembly for Royal Enfield Thunderbird 350 AVL

May 9th, 2011 12 comments
The performance of a IC engine is directly dependent on the difference between the ambient temperature and the exhaust temperature.  If you had learned about IC engines, it is apparent that the power generated is proportional to the temperature difference between the inlet and the outlet feed for the engine.  So, it is critical to operate the engine under low temperature such that maximum power is generated by the engine.  To keep the engine cool, engine oil is used, which also serves as the lubricant for the moving parts.  Engine oil is the blood for an engine and it’s circulation is crucial for maintaining the temperature and low frictional loses.  There is no oil cooler assembly for TB, or for that matter any RE bikes in India. 

Chinmay Dhangre from Pune generously offered to supply a modified oil cooler.  I was excited to read a blog post by Chinmay at http://www.indiancarsbikes.in/automotive-technology/royal-enfield-avl-engine-oil-cooler-update-real-world-data-4175/. When I contacted Chinmay at macasp@gmail.com, he was readily helping me to get the necessary fitments and hardware.

The reason for keep the inlet at a higher position than the outlet is to ensure that some oil is pre-stored in the oil cooler compartment all the time.  When the engine is started, it takes >10 seconds for the oil to reach the rocker, tappet assembly through the Y pipe.  If I had put the oil cooler in the middle, it would take more time to fill the oil cooler and then reach the rocker assembly.  Having this inverted connection helps the oil start its circulation faster.

The oil cooler assembly and the Y pipes are connect via a nylon coated reinforced rubber tube.  While fitting so, care should be taken for keep the pipes away from the silencer tube.  Also, it is to be ensured the the joints don’t leak after they are secured by clamps.  In the above picture, one clamp is missing!

I had used one clamp to offset the nylon pipe from the silencer tube.  I will have to use some other method for this offseting, as I am indeed wasting a good clamp!

While draining the oil during oil replacement, one has to take care of removing the oil in the oil-cooler compartment by opening the bottom vent.  Otherwise, sludge can start to accumulate inside the oil cooler assembly, which could eventually block the oil flow later.  So, it should be practice that the oil cooler assembly is cleaned every time the engine is serviced.

The completed bike is able to keep the engine oil temperature lower by allowing the natural air flow cooling off the oil through the oil-cooler fins.  Do mind that while the bike is stationery, the oil cooler cannot provide any help as it needs air flow for cooling.

How to Tune 4S Motorcycle Carburetor

October 27th, 2010 No comments
Tuning a motor cycle carburetor could not be as easy as it could get.  All one should know for doing the tuning oneself is to guess the speed of the engine motor (the rotations per minute).  Have you ever wondered about the sound a motor makes when it starts and stops ??  I am meaning the MMRRMMRRMmrrmrrmrrmmm….. sound 🙂  If you know about that you can tune your motorcycle yourself.


The Basics

The motorcycle carburetor is meant for atomizing (converting the liquid to gas state) the petrol and send the gaseous fuel into the engine cycle for combustion.  So, a carburetor gets the petrol fuel from the petrol tank, mixes that with atmospheric air (after filtering it using air-filter) to atomize the fuel in to a fuel charge using the venturi float setup.  The fuel charge is fed into the engine cylinder for combustion.  The quality of combustion is a function of the air-fuel mixture ratio.  The air-fuel mixture is the ratio of quantity of fuel to the quantity of air.  When there is too much air in the charge, the mixture is called “lean mixture“, and when fuel is more than air it is called “rich mixture“.  For complete combustion, there should be enough air for combustion.  Complete combustion enhances mileage.  For pickup tuned bikes, the fuel is kept little higher than air.  Also for cold starts, one needs rich mixture for quick firing up.

Modern day bikes are equipped with Constant Vacuum Carburetors which ensure best air-fuel mixture by adapting to conditions.  The carburetor adjusts the air flow automatically based on the load on the engine despite the accelerator position.  This is done by the baloon and back-pressure setup in the CV carburetors.  The CV carburetors come with two adjustments, a) Idling b) Air-Fuel mixture.  The Idling setup is trivial, it is just a offset setting of the accelerator wire.  Adjusting the idling screw (the screw with a spring) is just like you accelerating a bit.  The air-fuel mixture setting is just a screw near the idling screw, most likely the screw with have dirt on it (I mean more dirt). The air-fuel mixture screw controls the air-fuel ratio.  Full tight means low or no air flow and Full loose means more air.

The Method

  1. Set the idling screw for little more throttling, meaning the engine should rev faster than before.  Typically, 10% more than the idling speed that you are used to.
  2. Set the air-fuel mixture screw to full close (tight, don’t tight it too hard). You should feel that the engine speed has reduced a lot now.
  3. Open the air-fuel screw slowly and observe that the engine speed is increasing.
  4. There will be a point, which if you cross by opening it further, the engine speed will start to decrease.
  5. You will have to adjust the screw to find the point where your engine speed is higher. Consider the following graph for better understanding.

The graph (indicative) shows the trend of the engine speed for various air-fuel screw positions and various idling speeds.  The green line is the locus of all the peak engine speeds.  To the left of the green line, you see the enriched mixture condition and to the right of the green line you can observe lean mixture condition.

Pre-Conditions

  1. Don’t tune the engine when it is cold (cold start conditions). You may rev it for a while and tune it.  Basically, the engine oil has to pass through all the chambers and gears (otherwise too much friction is offered).  The dynamics of the engine are different when it is cold and hot.  If you tune when it is cold, you may supply lean fuel  mixture when the engine gets hot. Because while cold start, the engine needs enriched fuel charge.
  2. Set the idling to a reasonable value when you tune.  Too low or high idling can get you local maxima conditions, where you would not get the best peak point (refer graph).
  3. Check whether the air-filter is in good condition.  If the air-filter is blocked, tuning will not help.  Likewise, engine oil level and viscosity should be good.

Tobacco Helps!

October 25th, 2010 No comments
There is very nice use for tobacco even for the non-smokers!  Most of the LMV, MMV, HMV drivers would know about this  trick, so I am just documenting a world’s secret. 

If you had driven your car on high ways on a rainy day, despite having a nice wiper, you might have had severe problems with water staying on the wind shield glasses.  When the windshield gets wet, water stays there for long to deplete the clarity of driver’s vision on the roads.  If it is night and raining, highways and high beam lamps, you would know how bad it feels to drive.

This is where Tobacco comes for help.  When tobacco is wiped on glass, it gives glass repulsion to water.  Assume that you have wiped a bit of oil on glass and sprinkle water over glass.  You would see that the water droplets are never attached to the glass, rather they roll out faster without disturbing the surface of the glass.  Likewise, tobacco adds a thin layer of protection against water without disturbing the transparency of glass.   So, if it rained, take some tobacco and apply it over the glass, following by wiping the glass with tobacco.  You would witness water droplets running on your windshield rather than sticking on it. 

Disclaimer: Test the acceptance of tobacco on your glass in small scale before applying it in full.  Because tobacco can stain your windshield glass permanently, if inappropriately used.  Also, the application of tobacco is one-time use only.  If it rained very heavily, this trick may not work as the force water would remove the layer created by the application.

Fitting LED Strip to Getz Radiator Grill

August 15th, 2010 No comments

White (Blueish) LED strips with 3M water proof stickers are available for 300-350Rs/30cm.  These LED strips are pretty bright when illuminated and draws lesser power when compared to incandescent lamps.

Step 1: Open the Bonnet of the Car

Step 2: Identify the Parking Lamp + Head Lamp Positioning Motor Power Line

Step 3: Remove the Parking Lamp, Lamp Positioning Motor Power Connector

Step 4: Remove the Connector Shield to find the Power lines

Step 5: Find and Tap the Parking Lamp Line.

Step 6: Put the connector shield back on the connector
Step 7: Put the connector back on the Lamp assembly
Step 8: Turn on Parking Lamp; Hurray LED Strip is AWESOME.

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CRB Plus Vs Active 4T

August 9th, 2010 No comments

I had been using CRB Plus for my Thunderbird bike for the engine compartment and the clutch case. For the gear section I am using a 90 grade oil.  Lately, I found that the clutch case was getting overheated within few minutes.  When I enquired about this to my mechanic, he advised me to try Active 4T oil.  Later that day, the oil from the clutch case was drained and refilled with Active 4T. Wow, the heat dynamics is much better now.  I am able to touch the case with my bare foot even after 1 hour of driving.  Thanks to Active 4T.

Thunderbird Battery Charger

June 30th, 2010 No comments

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OMG OWS

May 23rd, 2010 No comments

OWS Spark plugs: These tiny fireworks are made with Iridium tips that ensure the fireworks with great health quotient for a long long time.  We call it the life-time plug.  Fit it & forget it; of course the mechanic will clean it when you give your car for servicing! 🙂
 
Lately, my car that is a Getz GVS 1.1 petrol, was treated with Bardahl engine flush and supplements; Bardahl transmission concentrate; Bardahl engine oil.  After this treatment, the engine was sluggish due to the very-high viscosity of the Bardahl treatment.  When I consulted with the service people, they promised that the performance would become much better once the Bardahl becomes little lighter.  I drove the car for a thousand kilometers and could see some improvements in the way the engine responded but not satisfied at all.

Then, I fitted the Green Cotton replacement filter, which was purchased from www.petes.in to my car.  The response of the engine started to become better but not the best.  I took a ride for about 900 km which included about 80 km hill driving. The ride proved that the free flow cotton filter is indeed working good. 

Following that, I got the OWS Iridium plugs (4 nos) from www.Speedworks.in.  Oh My God, the car was never responsive before like now.  I could feel the pickup boosted whenever I put my foot on the accelerator.  The 3rd gear response of the engine has become pretty awesome.  I am really enjoying this now.

Details:
Green Cotton Filter: Rs 4200 [got online from Petes.in, Cochin]
OWS Spark plugs: Rs 755 x 4 = Rs 3050 [Speedworks, Next to Eldorado building, Nungambakkam high Rd, Chennai]

Freeflow Exhaust Silencer

April 28th, 2010 No comments

என்னுடைய Thunderbirdன் Silencer பழுதடைந்தது. மாற்ற வேண்டி சென்னை Taylor’s Roadல் உள்ள சௌந்தரராஜன் மெகானிக் கடையின் ராஜு என்ற மெகானிக்கிடம் சென்றேன். அவர் Silencerஐ சோதித்து பார்த்துவிட்டு மாற்றித்தான் ஆகவேண்டும் என்று பரிந்துரைத்தார். அப்போது, இந்த Freeflow Silencer போட்டால் என்ன என்று கேட்டேன். அதற்கு அவர் கொடுத்த பதில் இதோ:-

ஒருவன் சத்தமாக தொண்டை கிழிய அலறினால் என்ன ஆகும்? தொண்டை நிரந்திரமாக பழுதடையும்; அதேபோல Freeflow Silencer போட்டால் இஞ்சினின் செயல்பாடு பழுதடையும், ஆயுள் குறையும் என்றார்!

ஆமாம், freeflow silencer போட்டால் பவர் (BHP) கூடுவது உண்மையே. அதேபோல mileageம் குறையும். ஏனெனில் அதிகமாக எரிபொருள் இஞ்சினிற்கு உள்ளே சென்று எரிந்து வேகமாக வெளியேரும். அதனோடு சரியாக எரியாத எரிபொருளும் வெளியேரும். Freeflowவினால், முழுமையான எரிதலை உறுதிபடுத்த முடியாது. அதனால் எரிபொருள் விரையமாகும், mileage குறையும். மேலும் freeflow silencerலிருந்து வெளிப்படும் புகையானது (கண்ணுக்கு தெரியவேண்டும் என்று அவசியமில்லை) emission standardsக்கு ஒவ்வாது.

Things I like in Getz GVS 1.1

May 25th, 2009 No comments
  1. Wipers settling down off the viewable wind shield
  2. Smooth gear box
  3. Linear clutch
  4. Double folding rear seat
  5. Split rear seat
  6. 175mm tires
  7. Dual trip meter
  8. Tachometer
  9. Center Clock
  10. Foot rest to the left of clutch
  11. Illuminated Glove compartment
  12. Triple nozzle water jet
  13. Tail LED strip
  14. Speed spoiler
  15. Manual rear view adjustment
  16. Center Rear view mirror
  17. Bottle holders
  18. Document holders on the doors
  19. Child lock
  20. Electronic door locks
  21. Remote keyless entry
  22. 45L fuel tank
  23. 2+3+1 Rubber mattress
  24. Recline adjustable rear seats
  25. Reclining front seats
  26. pouch under the steering column
  27. 100/130w head lamps
  28. Fog lamps
  29. Big boot space
  30. wheelbase and breadth
  31. Lowering of Rear seat side glass fully
  32. Hard Horn switches not touching the palms while turning fast
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